In Which We Talk On Phones

Communication happens at the speed of technology. (I should totally trademark that as a slogan.) Throughout history, technology has taken various forms: letters, telegraph, fax, email, whatever they're going to be using tomorrow. Maybe after the coming war with China we'll be reduced to sending messages by falcons.

Modern communication takes place, essentially, instantly. That's part of why they call it “modern”. You call somebody and can talk in real time. You can play video games and pretend to kill the Russians in Call of Duty and actually be playing against real Russians trying to kill the Americans. You can sit in the same room as somebody else and text back and forth instantly, and repeatedly, instead of walking over and actually talking to them. (Oooh that's right, 14 year-old girl demographic. You just got burned. I still love y'all, though.)

In Mozambique, communication happens at a different pace. Yes, there are cell phones galore here. No, it is not stapling a message onto a zebra and sending into the neighboring village. Infrastructure in Nampula largely skipped over installing land lines and just went straight to cellphones. That's actually pretty common in most of the third-world. Still, just because people carry cellphones doesn't mean they work. Also pretty common in most of the third-world.

The phones themselves, Chinese and hastily put together, have a short shelf life if any at all. It's not uncommon for people to buy phones and a month or three later have them stop working. But finding a good phone isn't the only difficulty you'll encounter if you want to talk here in Nampula.

The other difficulty is the networks. There are just two of them here, so there's not a lot of options for service. Reliability is non-existent for being able to send/receive calls as well as text messages. The trouble is there exists a paradox in how people view the reliability of the network. Even when the signal is strong and your meter is full of bars, you are no more likely to get service. Often times with a weaker signal the call goes without any problems. Lets throw some examples from just the last seven days.

Calls: Really, to be honest, they just don't go through all the time. When they don't go through phone will just ring and ring as if nobody is picking up, but in reality it can't find the other phone. Other times when you try to place a call it just goes dead and flashes a warning that network is not responding. Even though you have full bars there is no network. And yesterday, twice, I was sitting when my phone beeped and alerted me I missed a call. The call supposedly came five minutes earlier but my phone never rang. Than later in the day my phone beeped to tell me I missed a call. The only confusing part was it said the call came two days ago. I believe it.

Texts: Here, we call them messages, and they have a much higher chance of going through into the network. They also have a much higher chance of never making it to the recipient and getting stuck inside the network. Several days ago some visitors came by late in the afternoon to check out the orphanage. While we were talking my phone rang receiving a text. It was a message from these visitors, sent that morning, saying they were going to arrive at 3:30. I got the message after they had already been there for an hour. Later, I was in a staff meeting with Victor and Marta here. Then I got a text from Victor saying the meeting was going to start. “Pretty quick message, got here only a few minutes late,” I said to the others. Then Victor read the message and assured me that it was not a quick one. He sent it for the meeting that took place the day before.

Text are sometimes so notoriously slow that, after the events of the last week, I've started putting my own time-stamp on them. My time says when I sent it and differs from the one in the phone that says when it was received. This saves on the confusion when I get a text telling me to go somewhere in the truck to meet somebody, only to find out I'm three hours late.

And that is what its like to use a phone in Mozambique: Slow, spotty, inconsistent, unreliable. You may all now commence your AT&T and iPhone tethering complaints in the comments section below.